The legendary Bruce Brown, who made the classic surf film “The Endless Summer,” died on Sunday in Santa Barbara, Calif. He was 80 years old.May he catch and ride many great waves in the celestial ocean.
If you own a wetsuit then you owe this guy a debt of gratitude.
May the road rise to meet you, May the wind be always at your back, May the sun shine warm upon your face, The rains fall soft upon your fields and, Until we meet again, May God hold you in the palm of His hand.
Yeah, I know, I'm a couple of days late with the remembrance. Better late than sorry. Cheers!
"Everyone has his or her definition of what it means to be alive. For some, it's waking up in a big city, going to work, watching a soap opera, going to sleep... repeat, day after day. For me, that is the definition of being alive, not feeling alive. I demand more from life, I need to feel alive; and nothing makes me feel more alive than surfing. I have structured my life and sacrificed greatly in order to build my life around surfing. I don't believe in destiny, I believe that anyone, anywhere, has the ability to create the life they want to live. If I can do it, you can do it. So get out there and start living the life you want!"