"Everyone has his or her definition of what it means to be alive. For some, it's waking up in a big city, going to work, watching a soap opera, going to sleep... repeat, day after day. For me, that is the definition of being alive, not feeling alive. I demand more from life, I need to feel alive; and nothing makes me feel more alive than surfing. I have structured my life and sacrificed greatly in order to build my life around surfing. I don't believe in destiny, I believe that anyone, anywhere, has the ability to create the life they want to live. If I can do it, you can do it. So get out there and start living the life you want!"
Oops in front of a crowd of tourists at Fort Point. This poor guy kept trying to catch a wave for two hours without success. He never gave up. I give our persevering surfer an A for effort. Well done, sir!